7. Waves

The learning objectives of lecture 7 are:

  • To apply linear wave theory and to derive and apply potential flow theory to linear waves.
  • To describe wave shoaling, reflection and diffraction.
  • To describe basic nonlinear corrections to linear wave theory.
  • To perform simple statistical analysis to irregular wave trains.
  • To apply the concept of wave energy spectra and the relation between the time and the frequency domains.
  • To describe wave climatology and wave prediction.
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